Kepos Street Kitchen, Waterloo (7 February 2015)

Saturday, February 07, 2015

A 5:45am wake-up and 1 minute PB at the Sydney Striders 10km race provides the perfect reason to celebrate. My choice is in the brunch hub of Sydney, Redfern.

Kepos Street Kitchen (KSK) is immensely popular; yet I am as nervous as I was before the race. 'Must trys' are prone to disappointment - e.g. Cumulus (Melbourne) does a 63 degree poached egg that comes 2nd to microwaved eggs in a two horse race. That chef should be publicly shamed.

Kepos Street Kitchen, Redfern
I find it difficult not to attack the below display with my face ...

Display counter with all sorts of sugar-induced happiness

Clipboard menu, 1 page. I'm appalled by the lack of baked eggs but find excitement elsewhere. Try mentally digesting 'wood fired hot smoked salmon' or 'lamb with pine nut cigars' without salivating.

Personal philosophy - avoid DIY-like dishes at brunch. Why would anyone pay $12 for eggs on toast?

I like KSK's menu because I don't own a wood smoker, nor have I ever shoved pine nuts into edible tubes.

Kepos Street Kitchen, Redfern
Waitress has a thick European accent. Not to be deterred, I convey my portion expectations by imitating a teddy bear with my arms and blowing up my cheeks. Finally I point at my wife and describe how she does not feed me  at home.

Two items are recommended:
- roasted cauliflower fritters with smoked turkey (one of two signature dishes); and
- open omelette with zucchini salad and toast (daily special).

Because both sound so good, we agree a feeding prenuptial - 50/50 split regardless of dish of the day.

Double order of open omelette and cauliflower fritters.

The mystery of an 'open' omelette is no more. This is basically a pancake omelette with feta, pistachio and some zucchini spaghetti. Note the mint randomly dancing on top. Being $17 less well-off and 22 minutes older, I'd love to hate this simple dish but there is nothing not to love.

Open omelette with zucchini salad - $17

The omelette is strangely dense, which makes it filling. Garnish is rarely more than an annoyance. However, I discover fresh mint with an almost overly salty feta is a perfect match!

Toast on the side was at best a stomach liner and at worst a waste of table space.

After hitting the half-way point, I transition to the cauliflower fritters below.

Roasted cauliflower fritters, chickpeas, cumin, smoked turkey and poached eggs - $18

Served in pan, there is two layers of thick, chunky cauliflower fritters sandwiched between three sheets of turkey. It's almost like a reverse, double layer bread-less turkey sandwich.

Wood-imbued turkey, like salmon, is just awesome. Two poached eggs and a deceptively deep pan made this dish a real heart-warmer. Tasty, generous and satisfying!


I do wish my career was popping poached eggs and watching them ooze. It is disturbingly relaxing...

Bursting yolk from perfectly poached eggs.
A great morning is finished off with a creamy flat white. I'm no caffeine connoisseur, but taste was smooth, didn't need sugar and the mug was empty in half a minute.

Skinny flat white - $4.50

Dish of the day goes to the roasted cauliflower fritters.

Two telltale signs that a brunch is successful:
1) I'm not already thinking about what to eat when I get home (important);
2) I don't really care about the price paid (very important).

Tick to both.

Happy brunch hunting outside Kepos Street Kitchen

Scores below reflect a well-fed individual that is still smiling.

Food - 8.5/10 - simple, semi-alternative dishes that are very tasty.
Value - 6/10 - never like seeing dishes at $17-19, although portions quite acceptable.
Other - 8/10 - clean interior, great decor, no fuss service.
Overall - 8/10 - lives up to the hype.

To get a 9+ in my books, I need to have a spiritual experience with eggs. This cafe left me happy, but I didn't lose consciousness. Saying that, it is a must try for anyone in the Redfern area.

Kepos Street Kitchen on Urbanspoon

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